Bordeaux and Burgundy are of course the two cornerstones of any traditionalist’s wine cellar, and there’s good reason for that. But while a traditional claret can occasionally be a bit fusty and stern, there’s always something about a burgundy that’s lighter of heart and higher of spirit. Not to say there’s anything frivolous about this Pinot Noir from the Cote d’Or, certainly not: it’s a wine to be taken seriously, and treated with respect. But there’s just a hint of hedonism about it - the dandy highwayman if you like, to Bordeaux’s sober judge.
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