Albert Bichot Chorey Les Beaune Rouge 2013

Bordeaux and Burgundy are of course the two cornerstones of any traditionalist’s wine cellar, and there’s good reason for that. But while a traditional Claret can occasionally be a bit fusty and stern, there’s always something about a Burgundy that’s lighter of heart and higher of spirit. Not to say there’s anything frivolous about this Pinot Noir from the Côte d’Or, certainly not: it’s a wine to be taken seriously, and treated with respect. But there’s just a hint of hedonism about it – with its bouquet of violets, cherries and whisper of woodland smoke – it’s the dandy highwayman, if you like, to Bordeaux’s sober judge.

Situated at the heart of the Côte de Beaune, the commune of Chorey-Les-Beaune lies next to Savigny-Les-Beaune and Aloxe-Corton. The wines here are predominately red. The clay and limestone soil lies on an ancient stony alluvial fan and is therefore very well-drained.

Albert Bichot’s approach to viticulture on their estates serves as a reference for their partnership winemakers. Their vines are monitored by Albert Bichot’s teams with the same rigour as their own. This long-term partnership enables them to set precise objectives with the winemakers, particularly regarding the health of the vines, yields and grape maturity during the harvesting period.

The grapes are handpicked in 25-kg crates. They are sorted once they arrive at the winery and are gravity-fed into tanks. Maceration and fermentation lasts for 20 to 28 days in conical oak vats. Controlling temperatures allows them to work on different aspects of the wine. First they bring out the fruit of the Pinot Noir grape at temperatures of between 10° and 14°C and then increase temperatures to 20° - 30°C to develop body and tannins. Daily punching of the cap is adapted to each phase of the maceration and extraction processes. During de-vatting, careful attention is given to pressing, which is done very gently and is guided by tastings to ensure that we extract only the highest quality tannins. Not only does barrel-ageing lend aromas to the wine, but the porosity of the wood lets just the right amount of oxygen in to allow the wine to mature.

This wine was oak barrel-aged for 14 to 16 months in the estate's cellars (15-20% new oak). The diverse origins of the barrels (the Tronçais, Allier and Vosges forests), their particular degree of toasting and their age all contribute to Albert Bichot’s quest for bringing out the aromatic complexity that this special terroir has to offer.

This Chorey-les-Beaune has a beautifully intense and bright ruby red colour. The nose has toasted notes of red fruits and jam that, with ageing, move onto more musky and gamey notes of leather and spices. With a velvety, full body, this wine has a lovely tannic structure leading on to a subtly-flavoured and persistent finish. It would be ideal with finely-prepared red meat, feathered game or delicate cheeses. This Chorey-les-Beaune is also a perfect match for young partridge with hazelnuts or with rabbit cooked in red wine.