Donnafugata Anthìlia 2014

Donnafugata means 'fleeing woman'; a reference to Queen Maria Carolina, who escaped to Sicily during the French Revolution. This survival spirit continued at Donnafugata, where, as sales of Marsala started to drop off in Marsala, they began making top quality 'table' wines instead. Championing local grapes such as Catarratto and Ansonica - which appear alongside Viognier and Chardonnay in this white - they are total pros at coaxing out grape characteristics. With summery fragrances of Mediterranean vegetation, mingling with jasmine notes and peachy fruit, we're sure glad they survived to make Anthilia.

The Rallo family has made wine in historic Marsala since 1851 and their ancient cellars tunnel beneath the city. They were one of the first families to begin making high quality table wine when sales of traditional sweet Marsala started to decline, launching the Donnafugata label in 1983 and championing some of the more obscure regional Italian grape varieties. Today, they have two estates in Sicily: a modern winery and 260 hectares at Contessa Entellina in the hills east of Marsala; and 68 hectares on the island of Pantelleria. Donnafugata means ‘fleeing woman’ – a reference to Queen Maria Carolina who escaped the court of Naples in the early 19th century with her husband Ferdinand IV of Bourbon when Napoleon’s troops arrived. The couple took refuge in Sicily at Santa Margherita Belice palace.

Anthilia was the first wine made at this historic estate - a blend of indigenous varieties, it is a Sicilian classic. The grapes for Anthilia are trained in the counter-espalier system and are cordon spur pruned. The average vine density is 5,000 vines per hectare and production is around 8.5 tons per hectare. The grapes are soft-pressed and then the must is fermented in temperature-controlled vats.

The wine has a precise, fruity and floral personality, with a round and elegant body. Notes of yellow peaches and plums and persist, amid scents of Mediterranean vegetation. This is ideal with lightly smoked fish dishes.