Gavi Bolgarello Vermentino 2014

Maremma, the low-lying southern Tuscan area whence comes this wine, has only a fairly recent winemaking history. Historically, it was a swampland beset with poverty, crime and disease, and the efforts of one Baron Bettino Ricasoli of Brolio to establish a wine estate there in the 19th century were thwarted by the mortality rate among the malaria-stricken workforce. Thankfully the disease was eradicated in the 20th century, following the draining of the swamps, and winemaking has flourished since the 1970s, and the flower-powered fancies of this peach-and-lemon butterfly are free to join the many others among the newly-abundant vinous flora.

Poggio al Tesoro, producer of Bolgarello Vermentino, is the product of a joint venture between the Allegrini family of Verona and the American importer Leonardo Lo Cascio. They took over a 70 hectare estate in Bolgheri, Southern Tuscany, in 2001, and produced their first vintage the following year, under the supervision of Alberto Antonini.

Bolgheri is situated in Maremma, the southern, coastal part of Tuscany. Winemaking is a relatively recent development in the area as it was historically swampy, and malaria was a problem. Efforts towards viticulture were made in the 19th century, but the high mortality rate among the workers made progress impossible, and banditry was rife on account of the prevailing poverty. The swamps were drained and disease eradicated in the 20th century, and the development of quality wine was heralded by the arrival of ‘Super Tuscan’ Sassicaia in the 1970s. Winemaking has flourished since, and recent years have seen massive demand for land in the area.

The fruit is hand harvested and pressed pneumatically. Fermentation lasted for 20 days at 16C, in stainless steel tanks. There was no malolactic fermentation, and the wine was left on its lees in stainless steel.

An intensely yellow robe, sharply defined citrus aromas and a wonderful palate that starts with a fresh stone fruit fleshiness and ends with a delightful twang of lemon.