Madeira Barbeito Boal Reserva

Just as you (probably) wouldn't choose to watch a saccharin sweet rom-com packed to the rafters with needy American teenagers who really should just count their blessings, but nor would you (probably) want to watch a four-part documentary on paint drying, you don't want your Madeira to be cloying, and you don't want it to be too dry.

Vinhos Barbeito are experts at striking this balance and this marmalade and cane sugar-flavoured - yet moreishly refreshing - Madeira Boal is testament to that.

Vinhos Barbeito’s philosophy is that small is beautiful. They place an emphasis on the traditional cask ageing (canteiro) process for Madeira and avoid the use of caramel for colour adjustment.

It was founded in 1946 by the current winemaker's grandfather, Mario Barbeito. His grandson Ricardo Diogo did a degree in history before returning to the family company and finding his calling. He first took over from his mother in 1993, but had previously worked in the lodge alongside his grandfather. He has progressively increased quality to now earn the greatest respect amongst his peers and was recently referred to on Robert Parker's website as the ‘game-changer of Madeira’.

The Boal grapes underwent classic fermentation, stopped with vinic alcohol and the Madeira was then aged 100% in wood casks. It is bottled for between five and seven years’ ageing.

This is a vibrant young Madeira, made by one of the island's most dynamic producers. Featuring flavours of barley sugar and marmalade, it’s technically it’s medium sweet, but with wonderful Atlantic freshness, it leaves not a jot of cloying character.

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