Prosecco DOC Treviso Ca' Dei Noni 2014

'Like a rainy day that is not wet/like a gambling fiend that does not bet/like Dracula without his fangs/like the boogie-to-the-boogie without the boogie bang' rapped the Sugarhill Gang in 1979, on the frankly long version of Rapper's Delight. 'What is?' enquired your then teenage scribe, who never actually found out.

He might have been talking about this paradoxical yet utterly delicious non-fizzy Prosecco, which has all the flavour of its sparkling siblings but without a bubble to be seen.

Green apple aromas meet floral touches on the way to a full and luscious, spumante-spurning palate. 'Like toil and trouble without the double double/like Prosecco wine that doesn't have the bubbles,' they may have added. Maybe they did. Maybe the song kept writing itself, a twelve-inch enormo-mix ending only at the beginning in an infinite loop. Who knows..?

Giovanni Follador was given the Wine Quality Award from the Doge of Venice in 1769, since when the Follador family has set standards for meticulous winemaking. Giovanni's descendant, Gianfranco Follador, set upon the sparkling wine path in the 1970, when he founded Follador Spumante. One of the first sparkling wine producers in the area of Valdobbiadene, Gianfranco was driven by a respect for his ancestors' winemaking traditions and a love of the land, and armed with the very latest technology he has combined these elements to produce wines of outstanding quality.

Follador enjoys extensive vineyard ownership, most of the land having a south-southwestern aspect, giving an excellent sun exposure favourable to ripening. Harvesting takes place in September and October, dates being planned around careful inspection of quality and maturity. Additionally, some grapes are bought in from local farmers with whom relationships have been built over decades.

Follador believes that grape quality can be enhanced by respecting nature. No pesticide treatments are used that might be harmful to the land, and there is a program of co-operation with the University of Padua's Faculty of Agriculture, whereby work takes place to examine ways of reducing pesticide use.

This is produced using the Charmat Method, whereby the secondary fermentation takes place in a sealed tank rather than in the bottle - the fizz remains on account of the fortunate solubility of carbon dioxide. The Glera grapes receive cold maceration and are then racked several times and kept on the fine lees to extract youthful finesse and fragrance.