Taittinger Comtes Blanc de Blancs 2007 Vintage Champagne

An unassuming bloke, a friend of this scribe, let's call him Kenny, was one day thinking about opening his "nice" bottle. He took it from his rack, eyed it up fondly, and decided he'd keep it for a really special occasion. Kenny did this on his birthday. His birthday! Don't you be like Kenny. Carpe that diem and open the "nice" bottle! Roll back the rugs and give it the Gay Gordons. It's 52 weeks until your next chance.

When you do, make sure it's Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, a truly deluxe wine made as a one-off in only the most exquisite years. Bright, balanced and elegant, with just an undercurrent of nuttiness, exactly like yourself. Go on. You'll thank us.

Pierre Taittinger was working as a young liaison officer during the First World War when he discovered the Champagne region. He returned to the area in 1932 and bought a château and vineyards which had originally been owned by Jacques Fourneaux, and which dated back to 1734. The business was run by Pierre's son François from 1945, and upon his death in 1960 it was taken over by his brother, slowly but surely becoming one of the world's most noted Champagne houses.

In 2005, Groupe Taittinger SA, which also included the Taittinger hotel and luxury goods empire, was sold to Starwood Capital Group, an American private equity concern. The following year, Starwood sold the Champagne division back to the family, assuaging fears within the wine community that the new owners might not have a perfect understanding of what goes into making Champagne of such high quality. Since then Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, together with his daughter Vitalie and his son Clovis, has energised the business with a young team and a strong collective sense of continuity.

2005 was generally warm and dry, a mild spring following a hard winter and a hot July following a rainy June. A lengthy harvest began on the 12th September, over a period of mild, damp, windy weather which brought an abundant crop. Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blanc 2005 is made entirely from Chardonnay using only wine from the first press.

A deep but delicate nose offers subtle suggestions of oak, followed by a bright, clean and balanced front palate which gives way to elegant citrus enriched by a touch of nuttiness.